’90s STREET STYLE

In the recent years, a subtle wave of ‘90scentric nostalgia has hovered over our consciousness, creeping its way into oversized jackets and swanky tracksuits while many lamented a golden-era-gone-by. During this period, a new-fangled neologism- “90s kids” — gained currency within pop culture consciousness, circumscribing a collective circle of individuals with the privilege of growing up in the 90s who wore the label like a badge of honour.

In the In the realm of fashion, the influence of the ‘90s worked its way into the elevation of street style, expanding both in commercial visibility and viability. Hovering fog-like in the way it shaped our tastes, the ‘90s existed more as a sensibility rather than a revival of the brands that have since languished in silence with limited success.

It was not until fashion behemoths threw their weight behind these athletic brands did this fog crystallise in our consciousness. Riding on the heels of an immensely successful sneaker collaboration with Reebok, Gosha Rubchinsky paid homage to Italy by drawing inspiration from and collaborating with Italian sportswear brands such as Fila, Kappa and Sergio Tacchini during his S/S17 unveiling Pitti Uomo, Florence. In Vetements’ monumental collaborative show, Demna Gvasalia paired his Reebok and Champion collaborations alongside the likes of Manolo Blahnik, Comme Des Garcons and Brioni, lending the streetwear brand his sought after Midas touch.

This alloyed combination of the accessibility of everyday streetwear and the filtered-air domains of high fashion has undoubtedly revitalised the fashion industry, pushing the boundaries of what is acceptable and what constitutes good taste. As for millennials, or ‘90s kids who do not have the purchasing power to spare on high brow labels like Gosha Rubchinsky and Vetements, their collaborative counterparts offer a window into the lifestyle and sensibility that is sending shockwaves through the hitherto stagnant fashion industry.

Words by Lionel Ong

ERR’ THANG GUCCI

The answer to the titular question, taken from Jay-Z and Kanye West’s “N*gg*s in Paris”, would have elicited very different answers pre and post 2015. Following Frida Giannini’s rancorous dismissal from Gucci, the design house radically overhauled the Fall 2015 Menswear collection that she had been working on, from the clothes right down to the model castings, intimating that the change was not going to be mere window dressing.

Known for her penchant for refined luxury and Italian tailoring, Giannini’s collection was thrown out the window, and along with it, the design aesthetic that she had so fruitlessly cultivated the past eight years. The fashion house’s back room design team, under the stewardship of then-obscure Alessandro Michele, worked tirelessly to recast Gucci’s languid image, sending male models togged in slinky chiffon blouses and lace tops in delicate hues down the the runway. It wasn’t so much androgynous as gender bending, taking traditionally effeminate silhouettes and fabrics, and fitting them onto male models, challenging our sartorial heteronormativity and blurring fashion’s gender divides with a saccharine flair.

Full story in Issue 19 | Words by Lionel Ong

SPRING ’17 BEATS

As spring approaches, we curate a selection of beats that you need to hear this March

SILENT NOTES

(from left: Tam Dao from Diptyque, Royal Out from Creed and Ambrette 9 from Le Labo)

There are screechy, loud, overpowering fragrances. Then there are subtle masterpieces that have a quiet elegance, coy yet effortless. Silence, like the realm of scents, is ephemeral and hard to grasp. It can be characterised by its stillness, its absence, yet at times, it can also evoke much grandeur like an old abandoned house. Musing on its multi-faceted nature, we explored the many notes ascribed to silence by the world’s leading Noses. It appears that there is more musicality to the notions of silence than we had expected.

 

Creed Royal Oud: The Grandeur of Silence

Creed’s Royal Oud differs from all the other oud-based scents flooding the mainstream market in that the oud note stays prominent without overpowering the other notes. Offering an ode to oud, the resin of agarwood, it brings to mind the royal palace and the stateliness of the royal lifestyle. It conjures images of a light-flooded palace with marble, gold, wood, and the faint smell of leather: regal but not pretentious.

 

Diptyque Tam Dao: The Stillness of Silence

Diptyque’s Tam Dao is woody. But unlike Creed’s Royal Oud, it is restrained and serene. Influenced by freshness of the mountains of Tam Dao in Vietnam, it references the mystical Goa sandalwood and the tranquil quality of a misty forest in the early dawn. It is an oriental, spicy, and emanates nobility. Tam Dao opens dry and woody with the cedar top note, but fades into creamy sandalwood with a resinous edge. It evokes the interior of a rough, hand crafted wooden box an intricate piece of precious wood with a distinctively human touch and effortful time. The Zen-like quality of it captures the stillness of silence.

 

The Different Company Oriental Lounge: The Ambiguity of Silence

As the name suggests, Oriental Lounge takes references from the traditional heavy oriental fragrances, but with a twist. Creator Celine Ellena has almost inverted the typical Oriental structure in this fragrance, placing the theme in the overture as opposed to the third act. Ellena described it as a piece of clothing that suggests, but doesn’t reveal anything[an] amber for women and men searching for gentleness, sensuality, and a lot of character. Oriental Lounge has flesh and texture, like jacquard and silk. It is modern, but not minimalist nor excessive. Caloupil gives it a slight green and metallic vibe that clearly separates it from most traditional orientals. Imagine a Shanghai Tang burlesque lounge circa 1930s with hazy lights and exquisite costumes, complete with a slight suspense hovering in the air. The sensuality of skin mixes with the sharpness of spices. Time and space seem to blend together into a viscous texture, leaving the amber somewhat diffident, halfway between fluid and form. This dark, uncertain, brooding character gives this scent a film noir persona that is quiet but burning with latent eroticism.

 

Le Labo Bergamote 22 & Ambrette 9: The Simplicity of Silence

Le Labo’s philosophy is based on the Japanese idea of wabi-sabi, the art of imperfection. Each of their unisex fragrances is titled with a single note and a number, representing the centrepiece note and the number of notes in it respectively. Bergamote 22 is decidedly dry, but also sweet. It has an unapologetic linear presence, like a simple cup of Earl Grey in the crisp morning air. Floral, bitter, sweet, and virile, it is a blend that manages to be strong and simple in a sea of shrilly fruity-florals. Ambrette 9 has fewer notes, but is special nonetheless; it is a fragrance designed for babies. Centred on the ambrette seed, it is not overpowering like typical oriental amber fragrances, but rather very tender. The musky accord is tender like a mother’s love for her child. There is no need to announce this kind of delicate and warm affection from the rooftops; instead, we seek comfort in its ever-lasting presence.

Words by Qianwen Z. | Photography by Brian Buchard | Art Direction by Mandy Rep

 

TWO IN ONE: Sarah Moon for Nars

Together with Nars Cosmetics, Vulture hosted an intimate exhibition preview to celebrate the launch of our December 2016 Edition. True to the publication’s DNA of showcasing great photography, Vulture undertook the curation of the exhibition to display selected archival works of French photographer Sarah Moon who collaborated with the beauty brand on a special Holiday Collection. Comprised of pastels combined with muted red and burgundies which were tinged with a mysterious glimmer of glittery blacks and bronzes, and rounded off by a selection of quintessential, classic reds—reminiscent of that jolt of colour that unexpectedly comes across in some of Moon’s photos—the collection is as timeless as her photography work. DECK, Singapore’s alternative space for independent art and photography was our venue of choice.

 The Sarah Moon for Nars collection is now available on narscosmetics.com and beauty retailers. We suggest you start shopping stat—these limited edition collectibles might not last forever but the new Kohliners just might.

Photography by Wei Long H.